When arriving in Battambang, as in every town in Asia we were hit by a barrage of tuk tuk drivers. I told them to go away while we got our bags and that we would come to find them when we were ready, it’s a good try but this just doesn’t work in Asia (funny that). Duane had an offer from a driver for a free ride to a hotel and the deal was we didn’t have to stay if we didn’t like the place. By this time Kim was also talking to a guy who was not pushy whatsoever, a personality trait we seek but is often hard to find. Duane had already told the other guy we would go with him so Kim got Mr Nice Guy’s (Mr Saro) card (as he also offered tours) and we set off with Mr Pushy Guy. We took a look around the hostel that the driver had taken us to and it was an ok deal but we wanted to take a look at one more place. When we said we were going to look around, the owner then piped up and told us that if we leave, then come back, the deal was off and the price would rise. This really pissed us off so we told him that this was not a good business move and even if the another place was dearer and shiter we would not return. Yes that’s right,we would cut of our nose to spite our face, then we left.
We managed to find a much nicer room around the corner for the same price of the last place, so we checked in and went to go for a walk. Surprise, Surprise ….. only to find Mr Pushy tuk tuk driver outside. We looked at each other with a questionable look on our faces. He walked up to us and began telling us how he had followed us because we didn’t stay at the hotel he took us to, so we should use him for a tour the next day. He then started saying how he had not had a job that day and how poor he was, maybe he thought he could play the sympathy card on us. Well that didn’t work because we know Cambodia is a poor country and you’re not driving a tuk tuk because your loaded and really love the job, he had lost me when he started talking like that and the fact he had followed us there was just weird!!
That night we called Mr Saro that Kim had been talking with back at the bus and told him to pick us up in the morning – he had the job.
We had organised to be picked up at our Hostel but decided to head out for breakfast. After settling in at the Smoking Pot Cafe and ordering, Kim headed off to find some free WiFi to call our driver to let him know the new pickup spot. Before Kim had even made the 5 minute walk back after calling him he had already pulled up at the cafe, told Duane he would be across the street eating and we would go whenever we were ready – now that’s service.
Our first stop was at the gates to Battambang where a huge statue greats you as you enter. Our driver went on to tell us all about the stick that was in the hands of the statue and how it had made him king because of its power. We got some photos and we were off heading for the Bamboo Train. We had seen something on Nat-geo Adventurers back home about this so we had a fair idea what we were in for.
30mins later we paid the police officer at the train station while our train was put together. A lovely old Cambodian woman needed a ride back to her village along the way so she jumped on as well, even though not a word of english had been said we all knew this was going to be a fun trip we would all take together. As we took off we scanned what was our train for the next hour, and it wasn’t much of a train by normal standards. Gradually our raft like train got faster and faster. We were flying and it must be said we were on a track that didn’t seem very stable. Now take in mind our train is made up of two axles that are attached by a bamboo raft like board, and a motor with a rubber belt that makes us move. This setup makes it easy for the train to be pulled apart when you meet a train coming the other way with a bigger load. The etiquette is that the train with the lightest load unloads all its passengers and cargo and lets the other train past.
Still flying down the track about 15 minutes into the journey out of nowhere Duane ended up with a Snake in his lap. With some shrieks of fear, legs going everywhere and some not so nice words been yelled by us both, the local woman was hysterically laughing at Duane and Kims panic. The driver noticing the commotion quickly slowed to see if everything was ok (we secretly think he really slowed because he wanted the snake for dinner). After that we sat very close to each other and away from the edges. Even through it was just a green tree snake, when you are flying down the track at god knows what speed and its in your lap who cares what sort of snake it is.
When we arrived at our stop we were at a little village. We had some kids run out following us to show us around. In the village they made bricks and we were shown the whole process by the kids. We finished our walk and gave them a small amount of money for showing us around then it was back on the train for the return trip.
Back into the tuk tuk our driver took us to our next stop – a little village and some veggie patches (it wasn’t too exciting really) …. But then things got good as we made our way to the one and only winery in Cambodia. Yep, out of the whole country there is only ONE winery and of course we visited. We had a tasting for $1 and we left; without a bottle. Lets just say I don’t think the Cambodia red wine will make it to your shops around the world.
The next part of the day was our first experience with the death and absolute devastation that the Cambodian people experienced under the Khmer Rouge Regime. We visited what is known as ‘The Killing Cave’.
Mr Saro told us about what had happened to his family during this period and how his parents had fled their village (outside of Battambang, Cambodia) and walked for weeks to cross the border into Thailand to safety where they lived in a refugee camp. It was at this refugee camp that Mr Saro was born. The Killing Cave was at the top of a big hill which we climbed and when at the top we walked down into the cave. Mr Saro explained how the Khmer Rouge would walk the people to a hole at the top of the cave, blind fold them, hit them over the head and push them in. It was a very intense and sad experience to see this place and just a small sample of the sad history that Cambodia holds.
Mr Saro also explained that it was not until 1997 that his, and all the other surviving families from their village were able to return. We went into the cave and at the bottom and there was a cage of skulls and bones which the villagers had collected and placed into a shrine like box. There are no exact records of the number of people who had been killed here and many families who had loved ones taken in the night will never know if this became their resting place.
Making our way back down the hill feeling a weight of sadness on our shoulders once again the clouds converged, lightening lit up the sky and thunder cracked above our heads. Mr Saro told us when they returned to the village in 1997 the smell in the air was putrid from the despicable acts that had gone on there. We could not imagine what this would have been like but made us feel extremely sad for the Cambodian people.
The cave was our last stop on the tour so we had some lunch with Mr Saro to lighten the mood and watched preparations for a young brides (17 years old) wedding and then we headed home to work out our next port of call.
Mr Saro’s Tuk tuk Service
Highly recommended and he has great english
(+855)017790977(+855)017667127
Good article.
I don’t even know about the winery in Cambodia. Gonna take a look at it on my next trip there.
Make sure you do Eric, the wine wasn’t amazing but not as bad as I expected. Very deep in colour and tasted a little smokey. We love wine so we were very pleased to have made this stop
Great article! We are heading to Battambang in a weeks time. I am really looking forward to it now. Where did you stay while there? Did you have wifi?
Also, thanks for the details of your driver, I have written the details down
Hi Tanya, thanks for reading! We are pleased you have taken the details for our tuk tuk driver – he really was great, not pushy or rude like so many are. He even refused to let us buy his lunch and took us to a place where he knew the family so his was free!
Here is a link to all the places we stayed in Cambodia – including Battambang. http://wp.me/P272sj-i4
Be prepared to be firm when saying ‘NO’ in Battambang. Every hotel will try to get you to use their tuk tuk driver, try to sell you tours and try to send you to their friends restaurant (where we stayed the restaurant across the road you will be recommended is owned by the hotel owners friend). We ate at the Smoking Pot (it has recently moved so if it looks closed it means your at the old one)and the food was great! We also ate at Gecko Cafe which many recommend however we found it rather expensive for what you get. Also when you need a break from the outside world make sure you check out Cafe Eden along the river for their 50cent beers. Upstairs there are comfy chairs and they play chilled out music where you can relax and use the free WiFi
Our guesthouse didn’t have WiFi but their Hotel just around the corner did and you could go and use it any time.
Have fun in Battambang and fingers crossed you don’t have a snake encounter like we did!